Going it alone: My Panamanian adventure

I have never been afraid to do anything on my own. As a child I always joined clubs or wandered off on my own as I was determined the thought of going it alone wouldn't stop me. I had lived away from home in foreign countries for a few months before, but all the while surrounded by people I knew. Five months ago, I booked a return ticket for one person. To Panama. A foreign place to me. And I couldn't have been more excited! 

People described me as ‘brave’, told me that what I was doing was 'admirable', and I heard the phrase 'but it's different for me because I'm a man' more times than I cared for. Yes it was scary and there were times where perhaps being there with a familiar face would have made me feel a little more at ease, but I had to be realistic. I was on my own and chose to be. I was a grown woman in Panama, Panama! “Pull yourself together,” I said. 

A simple walk over the dusty, rickety old railroad bridge…

I had heard how difficult border crossings in Central America could be, but this particular one wasn't as bad as I feared. The sky was grey and the clouds showed no sign of sunshine trying to peek its way through. I stepped off the bus and followed the crowd towards the crossing and my heart sank. I had heard it was an old rail road bridge and an unsteady one at that, but I had thought some of the comments seemed a little exaggerated! I was pushed into a small office building where my passport was barely checked and stamped before being ushered outside again. And before I knew it, it was time to cross the dreaded bridge. 

I stayed on the left hand side, gripping my bag and taking it step by step. I looked to see some people stopping half way looking nervous about continuing their journey and others rushing by wanting to reach the other side as quickly as possible. There weren't many times on this trip where I wished I'd had a friend with me, but on this particular occasion a good friend to hold my hand would have made the crossing a little easier. I then made the stupid mistake of looking down. Now, I'm not afraid of heights but what put me off was the lack of wooden slats running through the middle and dirty green water floating just below us. Just keep your head up, walk on and don’t look down again! Somehow I didn't fall through and I was in! Welcome to Panama! 

Having said all this, the procedure was pretty simple, if you know where you are going of course, so I have written a little guide. 

Go to the first little white office building on your right hand side to show your passport and fill in a short form. Cross the bridge quickly, take some pictures if you want, and then make sure you don’t miss the other small building on your left hand side to pay the $7 entrance fee and receive your entry stamp (pic right). Most people miss this and have to go back, so keep your eyes peeled! The immigration queues at the next building are always long but you won’t have to wait for long. Make sure to have proof of onward travel with you, they are very picky about this when entering Panama. However, I met many people who know of ways around this including booking cheap flights with a sneaky 24 hour cancellation policy. Not a bad idea at all.

Bocas, you beauty!

I spent my first week on the beautiful islands of Bocas del Toro. To many the main island, Isla Colon, is known as Party Central. I wasn't quite in the mood just then so I hopped on a boat to Isla Bastimentos, one of the bigger islands nearby. It really is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been to. No exaggeration. 

The clear blue waters, the tropical fish, the food, the drinks, the sun, the sea - I was in heaven. Unlike Isla Colon, this island was full of local people and one or two hostels that had been built in their neighbourhood. I was noticeably a tourist with my burnt red skin and flip flops, yet I never felt out of place there. 

I was lucky and unlucky with the hostel I found. The people I met were fantastic, other solo travellers full of stories and helpful tips of where to go and avoid in Panama. Unfortunately, there was a water situation at the hostel- there was no water. After only one day and too much dry shampoo, I grabbed my soap and headed to the sea! Being salty clean was good enough for me!

A group of us explored the island together, went hiking, relaxed at the local Wizard beach and even caught a ride with a local guide and spent a beautiful day snorkelling miles from the coast. 

We swam in deep blue waters with the sun glaring down upon our bare backs as we stared at the colourful fish swimming by. Our guide took us to several spots where no other boats were around, and we spent the last few hours on a remote and even smaller island taking in the views and re-living our wonderful day. I was pleased I found such a nice group of people to share my first snorkelling experience with, as I had always wanted to snorkel and heard these islands were great for doing so. As happy as I was travelling alone, the snorkelling, exploring, hiking, or just sitting with a cup of coffee was better with company. 

Stranger - Danger?

The only moment I felt lost was during my second week. After arriving at a bus stop and asking a guard where I had to go (in the very little Spanish I knew, I know, I was very well prepared for my trip). He muttered something and gestured to where I presumed my stop was. And so I waited for my bus. Half an hour passed, no bus. I soon realised that this was not my stop. And in an hour or so it would be dark. Panic started to set in. 

Before I thought of possible ways out, a chirpy young man appeared right beside with a big smile and stuck his hand out to me. I politely smiled back, shook his hand and before I knew it he was showing me pictures of the pottery he had been making all day with his mother. I nodded and kept smiling, all the while wondering why this man had chosen to sit by the only foreigner in the bus station and where my damn bus was.

I was weary at first to tell him what bus I needed to catch, but I am so glad I did! He jumped up, told me I was at the wrong stop and to follow him to the right one. I was very weary as to where he was actually leading me. Turns out it was to the correct bus station and I breathed a sigh of relief. 

He quickly scribbled his name and email address on a piece of paper before wishing me a safe journey, and asked me to add him on Facebook as he didn't have any friends from Europe, before meeting me. I felt like the world’s worst person as I had given him a fake name, and kept my bag close to my chest. Note to self: Most people are friendly and kind, don’t be so quick to judge. 

One travel website I wish I'd heard of earlier - Travel central America. 

All good things come to an end... 

After a long yet unforgettable journey it was time to go home. I always feel ready to go when the time is near, and I couldn't help but wonder where the time had gone. The past eight weeks had been full of new experiences and given me a lot of time to reflect on who I was and what I wanted. I was surprised at how friendly strangers were, and after my incident at the bus station I felt more at ease, and even hitchhiked alone once or twice… Mum, if you’re reading this, I’m sorry! 

Would I travel alone again? Yes - if a friend couldn't come with. Panama was extraordinary and I can’t say I’m not already thinking about going back! I didn't even venture to Panama City! There is something about Central America that calls to me, and having made it back to London safe and sound all on my own, it has given me a confidence to realise I can go it alone as can anyone. If anyone is thinking about it I urge you to stop thinking about it and do it!

And on my last week....

I cannot believe I have just written that title! I remember thinking that this week was soooo far away when I first arrived. So much has happened since my first day here and I'm happy I have kept this blog to remember it all! 

On my last day in Boquete, my French friend and I walked around town, trying and failing to find a tour on a Sunday and it was such a beautiful day too!

I can't say I loved Boquete and I don't know why everyone raved about it! It's only a small town covered by the mountains, full of tourists, retired Americans who now live here and tour operators offering pricey day trips datying from $40 a person! 

I am so glad I had my friend with me and met some great people at the hostel for the two days I spent there. However, I cannot say a bad word about the view. The mountains are so green and big it's not a bad sight to wake up to every morning, and I will miss the fresh bread for breakfast every morning! 

Above: Having breakfast with my lovely French friend, view of Boquete on a lazy Sunday, the colourful art around town and the yummy 45 cents holjadres or French toast I had to try! 

Having finally heard back from a few volunteer opportunities I decided on seeing what the city of David had to offer! And it turns out, it's not a lot!

I was fortunate to be able to volunteer at Bambu hostel (pic below)  just outside the city centre from Mon-Fri. I didn't realise how hot and humid it would be and it was great that they had a pool and was the only hostel around that did. Waking up at 6 isn't  anything new to me out here, and so my 7am starts were fine but by the time 9.30pm came along and I was tending the bar alone I really longed for my bed! Especially when it rained every evening I worked and it chucked it down like I was back in Wales! 

Above: the drawing wall at Bambu, where anyone can write anything they want! 

After cleaning/sweeping and general tidying up in the morning my afternoons were free! I spent one of them in a taxi 40mins south towards the nearest beach, Playa Barqueta. I hadn't been on the Pacific coast in 4 weeks and having seen the Carribean I think I definitely prefer the Southern Coast. 

If I wasn't volunteering in David, it would only be a one night stop as it's known as a city to get to and get out of quickly to other and better places but if you ever find yourself stuck for something to do in David Playa barqueta is such a refreshing and nice change from the craziness of this city! 

It only cost us $10 per person and we manged to get a free ride back with the staff that worked at the fancy looking 5* resort by the beach. Don't get me wrong the resort looked great and what a view,  but it was far from the shops and main road. I guess it was for guests who prefer the all inclusive vibe holiday. 

But while waiting for the bus, I took a quick dive in the still pool wondering where everyone was until I saw a sign stating the pool was closed for a few hours in the afternoon! Oops! Ah well, it was nice to have the pool all to myself  for 10 mins! 

Above: Playa Barqueta and possibly Costa Rica in the background.So nice to be back on the pacific coast!

My nights were occupied tending the hostel bar (pic below) and it was great! The only 'bar work' I had done before was handing over pre made drinks to rugby or football fans so running the bar on my own was awesome! 

Ok so maybe 'running it' is a little much but I served the drinks and was bought a few myself and the best part was the mix of interesting and different people staying at the hostel each night and each had so many stories and experiences to tell! I could have sat there and listened to some of them for hours.

The people you meet while travelling really do make your trip especially the people you meet in hostels. Yes there are beautiful beaches and places to see, but sometimes it's just as nice to meet someone you get along with and go for a walk, grab something to eat and just enjoy the company. This week, well this whole 8 weeks has definitely made me realise that you don't need to occupy yourself with tours/things to do all day. It can be just as nice to spend a day talking and getting to know someone when you just want to relax and take a break.My bar shifts have definitely helped me do that! 

And now I have 2 nights left before I begin my last bus journey heading back to Costa Rica and have heard it's a long 8/9 hours! Can't say looking Im looking forward to it, so I'm determined to make the most of my last few days in sun! No more rain please David!

Lost and Found in Panama!

Having only spent a fortnight in Panama, this country is starting to win me over, and Costa Rica has some serious competition!

After two attempts to leave Bocas, (the first boat ran out of petrol) I took the 2 1/2 bus trip to the mainland. The route was simple enough and flew by! Before I knew it I stepped off the bus to the Lost and Found entrance, the jungle hostel hidden up in the mountains! 

I read about it briefly in a Central America guide book but was convinced to go after meeting someone who had recently been and loved it! If you think it's something you would like, it's definitely worth a look: www.lostandfoundlodge.com.

The walk uphill to the hostel wasn't half as bad as what I had read and they even had signs encouraging you to keep going and a small bench to give yourself a 5mins rest. 

This place reminded me a lot of Merazonia, an animal refuge in Ecuador I volunteered at last year and brought back good memories. The jungle feel, feeling chilly at night, the trees, the greenery. I'm happy I chose to go here.  

Above: My bed was the top bunk for 3 nights! 

The views are phenomenal and that's really not exaggeration. There are mountains everywhere and the cloud are so white and clear and when the sun is setting you can't take your eyes of it.

I realise this sounds a bit like a piece from a guide book, but I can only explain it this way. A nice change from the business and beaches at Bocas!

 

On my second day, I went hiking (pic below) with a nice Belgian girl who had been hiking to every landmark surrounding the hostel and I was keen to see some myself.

We began early, but it didnt do much good as the sun was already out and after 10 minutes we were sweating! 

The hike took us past the 'on and off' lake that was dry when we looked, the little oven lookout gave us a little peek of the mountain views. We then came across the huge tree beard (below) that looked like lots of tall trees mounted together with swinging vines that we attempted to swing on!  The banana kingdom was not full of bananas as I'd hoped as I can't get enough of the fruit out here! 

After a tiring 3 hour hike we finally made it to Valley View the furthest point and it was so worth it! We must have stood there taking in the view for a while, admiring everything around us and to catch our breath of course!

On my second day I took a trip to the river canyon, which was great to jump in and swim in the cool river but the night time was really great when a campfire was lit and we all sat around roasting marshmallows and even bread on sticks! De-licious! After 3 nights in Lost & Found, the third being free, I caught the bus to a small town in Boquete, a place that everyone I had met in Bocas raved about! 

Now I am here I can see why people like it, it is surrounded by mountains and when the sun is out it is a pretty place. But it is another town,that reminded me a lot of Tamarindo ( a town I went to in my second week, which seems a life time ago now). It is packed full of tourists and tours offering days out for 'cheap' prices.

I was fortunate to meet up with my lovely French friend who I met in Isla Bastimentos, who I saw on the bus the day before! Of all the buses we could have taken and of all the hostels in Boquete we choose the same one! That worked out well really! 

We chose to take a trip to the hot springs (above) another cheap day like the snorkelling trip we took, so we are quite happy with our findings so far! And of course we got lost on our way and walked waaaay further than we should have, but hey it's all good excercise, right? That's what we were saying to ourselves anyway. 

So, we dipped our feet into the hot springs and were so suprised as to how hot it was. We were told it was around 35-40 degrees, hotter then the weather which seemed impossible! 

A few locals passed by and one woman told us that she suffered from arthritis in her hands for years but after regularly visiting and bathing in the springs she was healed! She told us to let the water soak into our skin that night and not shower until the morning. 

We said we would and are hoping to have smooth and healthy looking skin in the morning! If only we could visit these springs every week we'd be glowing!

Today is my last day in rainy/hot Boquete and also marks the beginning of my 7th week in Central America! I think a taste of the infamous local coffee is in order and a glass or two of this Argentinian white wine I have heard so much about... Who ever said coffee and wine don't mix?! 

Home time!

I'm baaaack! After 56 days of new experiences, new people and a few surprises here and there, I landed in London with a beautiful view of the sunrise from the plane! So nice to see the UK again.

Above: The clear blue sea when we went snorkelling. One of my favourite days spent in Isla Bastimentos, Panama. 

I cannot believe how fast my time here has gone. I remember thinking that this day was so far away when I first arrived in Costa Rica. Throughout my travels I made a list of what I have noticed/realised about myself and my surroundings. I actually wrote a lot more but cut it down as not to bore you! 

What I have learnt from this trip: 

1. The sunrise and sunsets here are both worth waitin for. 

2. Playa Grande beach (below) could be my favourite place in Costa Rica, and yet it was unknown by many travellers I spoke to. It is beautiful. 

3.  People are kind

4. You can never put on enough mosquito spray. Those demons are everywhere.

5. Howler monkeys/roosters/Tucans will wake you up most mornings and not stop until they know you can't go back to sleep. 

6. Other Solo travellers will be happy you started talking to them first.

7. Unlike the UK everyone says hello to you here. Everyone. 

8. Couples are just as easy to talk to as solo travellers. And just as nice

 

9. I have missed people back home more than I thought I would

10. Ecuador coffee tasted a little better but I am still taking some home with me.

11. So much can be done by 10am 

12. I prefer the bottom bunk (unless I go back to Lost and Found lodge, I will cross my fingers for the highest bed!)

13. Some people will steal your stuff, even where you think it's safe :( 

14. Cold showers are so good.

15. You never know what the day will throw at you. Expect suprises 

16. Being ill abroad sucks, but it's made so much better when strangers you met the same day stay by your side to help. 

Above: Panamas pacific coast. 

I love seeing different parts of the world, and will definitely return to Panama and explore more of it and the other beautiful  countries surrounding it. Costa Rica was fantastic and I will always remember by time there fondly buy there are too many other countries in this world to see!

I'm glad I did this trip and I'm happy that I did it alone, I feel proud almost. A few years back I would not have even considered going to a foreign country on my own. It's not half as scary/dangerous/lonely as people think. I'm already planning where to go next, so many places to see out there... No idea where to go next, but I can't wait! 

Bocas del toro, you beauty!

I'm in Panamaaa!! 

Since I began planning my trip to Costa Rica way back in 2013 (all those years ago), I read so much about these small islands off of Panama, each with a different name but known collectively as Bocas del toro. Every blog and guide book raved about these islands so I was determined to check it out and now I'm here I can finally see what all the fuss is about! 

My week began in Cahuita, a small town North of Puerto Viejo, boasting a beatiful national park full of wildlife and amazing views. And it es exactly that. I walked the 8km trail and was thankful it was all flat and partly along the beach, given the hills I dreaded back and forth to the farm the  previous week! 

Below: Cahuita National park. 8km trek in the sun wasnt easy but the views made it worthwhile

And on Tuesday morning I took the 8am bus to the border. I got talking to a friendly Canadian couple who were headed the same way, so it was nice to be with others who were new to the process!

Having read so many tips and hints on where to go and what to do while crossing the border, I was weary as to how it would go, but it took only half hour to get an exit stamp cross the bridge and get an entry stamp to Panama! Not bad at all. 

Don't look down: the old railroad bridge is now the crossing to Panama!

The one thing bloggers were spot on about was the old wooden railroad bridge (pic above) I kept to one side as so many slats in the middle had disappeared and even the sturdier looking ones I walked on were creaking! I still managed to take some pics, but the Canadian woman I was walking with was so suprised to see me snapping away, she gasped "Oh! Don't show those pictures to your mom!" 

Left to right: A little windswept on the boat, the view from my hostel on isla bastimentos, bocas town dock and the bridge picture I was told not to share! 

My hostel 'Yemanja' was on Isla Bastimentos, about 10 mins and $3 dollars away from the mainland. This place has been described as anotherworld compared to Bocas town, and they got that spot on! There are only a handful of hostels dotted around this island, and the rest of the colourful buildings are houses of locals who have lived here for years.

One path leads through Bastimentos, with a few mini supermarkets and the odd bar. That's about it. It's so anti Bocas, it was great to be living in amongst the locals and really getting a feel of how they live. Everyone smiled at you and the kids said hello as you passed, I can't say I felt out of place here at all.

Stunning: our view after snorkelling, the $0.50 delcious coconut water and some of the fish we passed. 

Woke up to a beautiful day, and after meeting two other travellers ( and rench lady and an American guy at the hostel) we all decided to take a snorkling trip together. We tracked down a local and after some negotiating, he took us to Coral Cay reef almost an hour away by boat. Our trip to the reef was bumpy as the waves were choppy that morning, and the views of the other islands and the Panama mountains were amazing! 

The snorkelling was so much fun,the waters were so clear and with the sun shining on us we could have swam all day! We saw lots of small and big fish full of colours and coral reef that simply swayed in the ocean. We ended the day on Island Solarte, 5 mins from Bastimentos, taking in the views and relaxing after a great but tiring day! And it cost us $15! 

 

And so it's now Sunday night, I ventured to the main land two days ago and have already met some great people! I like that wherever you go, there's always someone to talk and hang out with. 

I have one more day to take in this beatiful place and the I'm off to explore more of what Panama has to offer! I cannot wait.

Bye bye Bocas! 

Viruses and volunteering

And breathe.....

It's Sunday afternoon and I can finally relax after a week of very early mornings and very dirty fingernails! 

I was unlucky enough to catch the virus that was floating around the Carribean coast before my farm week, and so I was happy to move on with the hope that a bit of work would make me feel better! 

Below: Cool sign at Outback Jack's place, view from the volunteer house, our cheese, vagos place sign and our kombucha! 

And for 6 days and 7 nights I volunteered at an organic farm called 'Vago's place' about 10mins away from Puerto Viejo, and seen as I was in town already I avoided another crowded (and dreaded) bus journey! And now my whole body is aching! No exaggeration. 

3 of us volunteered last week, myself, an American girl and an Australian girl so we had a nice mix and were able to swap and share travel experiences! 

We did so much from milking goats to making cheese, to improving pathways, and feeding the chickens to planting herbs and even making our own pesto and kombucha! 

The days were hot and we were so thankful when it rained at night as it  drowned out the goats moaning and the world's most annoying rooster who seemed to think it was ok to cock-a-doodle-doo at 2am! 

Spotted: 2 teeny tiny hummingbird eggs in the garden. 

The farm grows a lot of its own food and it we used most if not all of the vegetables and herbs for our meals each day. We made pesto from the leaves, kombucha from the juices and tea from the herbs. A very healthy and nutritious  week I must say. 

Saturday was market day, which meant half a day of selling our homemade products.

 It was packed full of locals and tourists looking to get some bargains and had so much on sale from fruits to meats and cakes! I tried a slice of homemade carrot cake which was delicious! The best $2 I have spent since I got here!

And for our last dinner we made our own pizzas with their massive pizza oven, leaving us feeling full and happy having craved pizza all week!

Below : Our stall selling kombucha, tea, taco chips, creams, bug repellent, mouthwash and cheese!

The week was hard and I am physically tired from the work and walking quite a way back and forth to town every afternoon, but I really enjoyed myself. 

I have learnt how to cook healthier foods, have jotted down recipes for foods and juices I didn't even know you could make(!) and have really learnt another way of living out here! 

I'm so glad I had the opportunity to do so and would encourage others to try it, even of you're not sure it would be your thing! I think it would surprise you.

This week's been different...

Well, this week was certainly different.

Iv come to the decision that I prefer the coast to inland towns, though I'm glad I saw a few places. And homesickness started to sink in too..

My trip to La Fortuna wasnt what I thought it would be. I arrived in the rain bit was told to expect that, however I wasn't expecting to leave the very next day!

Below: Arenal volcano from the boat 

La Fortuna wasnt unlike Tamarindo, with its tourist/souvenir shops and every other shop was offering tours to the volcano/waterfall, all starting at around $45! I did think about it but having met some people, they said they liked a few of the tours buy it wasn't worth the money. I was fortunate to meet two great girls and find a great little coffee place called Down to earth coffee: http://bit.ly/1nOL5Vb. (Shameless plug) 

I tried a banana iced coffee here which tasted surprisingly good, and I wish I could have had another! If you ever visit La Fortuna this place is a must!

The next day I had lunch with a great girl and then we parted ways and I took a taxi-boat-taxi to Monteverde (pic above).

I decided against a public bus, as it would have cost me half the price, but also double the time! So I'm glad I did it.

The views were amazing, and it's only when you see he volcano from afar you realise how big it is! 

Monteverde is another town offering plenty of tours, it wasn't a big town but it was of hills, so even a walk to the supermarket felt like good excercise! 

I passed this awesome looking tree house restaurant (pic above) where this place had been built around this huge tree that stuck out of the building! 

Spent the day hiking with guys I met in the hostel, we walked up very steep hills to a Ficus tree which took us longer then we thought because, silly us we went at midday! And my arms were a lovely shade of red that night! 

The tree was huge and easy to climb though I couldn't reach a higher branch or find some place to set my foot! Damn my short legs. One guy took some pics and promised to send me some when he's home, the views from the tree were amazing! 

 

And after 9 hours and 2 bus journeys later, I arrived at the Caribbean coast on Wednesday evening! My hostel is just by Punta Uva and has a rustic and a real jungle feel to it! Plan to spend a few days on the beach, start a good book, do the laundry and see what this coast of Costa Rica has to offer!

 

Above: Beautfiul Punta Uva beach